What to do when pipes freeze (and how to avoid burst damage)

Frozen pipes can split when they thaw. Here's how to limit damage and prevent the next freeze.

Which pipes freeze first

Exterior walls, unheated garages, attic runs, and hose bibs on outside walls are the usual victims. Pipes in cabinets on outside walls freeze because the cabinet doors trap cold air against the wall. Any line on the north side of the house with poor insulation is at risk when temperatures stay below freezing for more than a few hours.

Safe thawing vs what causes bursts

A pipe bursts when ice expands and splits the wall, but the leak often doesn't show until the ice melts. Open the faucet downstream to relieve pressure. Thaw with a hair dryer or heat tape — never an open flame. If you can't reach the frozen section or water still won't flow after gentle heat, stop and call. Aggressive heating on a already-split pipe just speeds up the flood.

Shut-off and damage control if a pipe splits

Know where your main shut-off is before you need it — see our emergency prep post. If water is flowing, shut the main, kill power to affected areas if water is near outlets, and move valuables. We repair burst copper and PEX same-day when we can; the drywall and insulation drying is on a longer timeline. Document everything for insurance before cleanup starts.

Insulation and hose-bib prep before cold snaps

Disconnect garden hoses, close inside shut-offs to exterior bibs, and install insulated covers on outdoor faucets. Open cabinet doors on cold nights so warm air reaches pipes under sinks. For lines that have frozen before, foam pipe insulation and heat cable are cheaper than one burst repair. We can add frost-proof hose bibs and reroute vulnerable lines when insulation isn't enough.